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Michael Harlan Turkell, author of the 2017 vinegar book Acid Trip, had told me that no investigation could be considered complete until I tasted vinegar made by Erwin Gegenbauer, an Austrian maker whom Turkell credited with his interest in vinegar in the first place. A fair amount of string pulling resulted in my being sent four bottles of Gegenbauer, which are extremely difficult to find in the United States. A more complete and lively tasting thing has never passed my lips. Erwin Gegenbauer confirmed to me directly that not only does he play music for his bacteria but he reads them stories. I cannot say whether it is the quality of the cucumbers or bananas or sherry that he ferments or the quality of his storytelling that is to thank for the absolute superiority of what he makes, but whatever it is, it is transformative.
Welcome to Vogue’s very first Sleep Week, where we celebrate the glory of a good night’s rest. Over the next seven days, we’ll highlight our favorite sleep saviors—from pillows and bedding to night creams and pajamas. Read (and shop!) for the sweetest of dreams.
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